Among the most talked about incidences in recent history is Raf simons now at the helm of the house of Christian Dior & made his debut on the runways of paris for the FW12 couture season. It was as if everyone in fashion had been holding their breath. There has been so much speculation during the last year about whether or not this was even a reality.
Raf’s collection was minimal. Raf’s collection IS minimal. the art of haute couture- not often associated with minimalism. i think we, as a grouping of fashion spectators have become desensitized by the imaginative theatricality of john galliano. as W Magazine’s Edward Enninful made public his thoughts of Dior’s previous director he spoke, “thinking of John Gallinao today, talk about setting the bar high”. With that energy being cast into the air, one couldn’t help but admit that the golden age of Christian Dior is, tragically, over. I won’t sit in disappointment thinking that there can’t be another great era for the label, but in seeing this collection, the level of design which is being produced pales in comparison to the work of galliano. I hate to admit it, but of course, comparison is always inevitable, particularly in subject of fashion. It’s simply impossible.
That said, there seems to be a goal to re-establish what & who this dior woman is, in our modern times as Raf said. Some of the collections pieces contained extravagant beading which is often associated with the art of couture craftsmanship but still, the clothes are boring. And these are not just clothes, but couture. that is exactly what Raf always showed- clothes. this was most certainly not couture. from vision to cohesion, or lack there of- much of this collection was wrong, not up to par & is far too simple to properly introduce this new era of Christian Dior which we have all been waiting for. most of us are thinking, “this is how you replace Galliano?” – looking at how subtle these clothes are, i get it- the house of Christian Dior has been built on soft, feminine sophistication but in the same regard, John Galliano elevated the house of Christian Dior to violent elegance & explosive glamour- it was a show you came to see when you were at christian dior during couture season. seemingly, everything that the label & what we’ve come to define as dior under the direction of Galliano has been stripped to practically nothing. The Dior we know has seemingly been reduced to minimalism & couture accents rather than full on haute-make-you-grab-your-fucking-chest-and-gasp-for-air-couture.
I’m not saying that the collection is bad, in fact it’s good- but maybe that’s the problem. With a house like Christian Dior & all the glamour of the house legacy- we don’t want good, we want fucking great. Where is the glamour? There was no allure, there was no theatricality, no spark & no sense of excitement in the collection that made you say to yourself, “this. is. fashion.” – of the looks that were presented, you were left wanting more & not in a ‘this is too good’ type of hunger but a longing the sense of, “that’s it?” I would rather have had 5 amazing looks that can live up to the Dior couture standard, rather than seeing plenty of watered down gowns with no embellishment, no show stopping elements. When thinking of other collections that will be presented this couture season, i wonder- where is the house going? What direction are they taking? I’m all for simplifications but i understand the demands for drama, the thirst for theatricality & the calling out for true couture. We’re looking for couture that fucks with our brains & makes us ask ourselves- “how does beauty this intense even exist?” – we did not find that here & im fearful of when we will, ever again with the house of Christian Dior.